Venice islands: Pellestrina
From the sea to the sand dunes, the reed beds in the shallows of the lagoon
fish hatcheries it is a long strip of land pulsing with life. Pellestrina
is a narrow eleven kilometre-long barrier between sea and lagoon and protected
from the raging waters by one of the sturdiest sea defences that the Venetian
Republic was able to put up in the 18th century to safeguard the city:
the murazzi (seawalls).
This artificial rock-fill seawall, straight edged on the lagoon side and
sloping downwards on the Adriatic side, was constructed with rough-hewn
blocks of Istrian stone extending for a stretch of about twenty kilometres
along the natural littoral that defends the artistic, cultural and economic
heritage centred on Venice.
With this heavy armour the littoral guards its small fishing villages,
places full of sounds, echoes, voices over the turbid lagoon waters: San
Pietro in Volta, Portosecco (an ancient port now silted up), and the cart
tracks of San Antonio and Pellestrina.
The Pellestrina Lido extends from the Port of Malamocco to the Port of Chioggia. The island was populated when mainland dwellers fleeing the Longobard invaders arrived there, but the location was not to be spared in the bloody 'War of Chioggia' between Venice and Genoa, won in 1379 by the Venetians.
An island of market gardens and small coloured houses it is a pearl of nature
and human ingenuity; little wonder that there are still housewives - though
few - sitting outside their homes working the pillow-lace on their jiggling
bolsters surrounded by deep and forgotten fragrances, beside the endless lagoon
from which to admire the heart-rendering sunsets.
Here village life displays the cultural characteristics typical of island
folk and rooted in the distant past. In truth, the population here is a repository
of that Venetian identity - or Venetian-ness that elsewhere is fading away.
From this timeless place we visitors can set out on charmingly relaxing
bicycle rides, perhaps at sunset, when the sun descends and the surface of
the water seems to wink at us.
Then, beyond the Pellestrina cemetery you pedal for about a kilometre along the imposing seawall just a few metres from the sea as far as the Lido of Ca' Roman, the green space of the island, that opens up onto 40 hectares of beach, dunes and vegetation. This is the last refuge of many species of flora and fauna: a pine grove turned into a natural oasis, now protected because of its strong ecological interest, dwelling place of two species of birds in particular - the plover and the little tern, which have found their ideal habitat at Ca' Roman.
Visit all the islands of Venice...
